Lima Taverna sits, clandestine, in an East Plano strip mall located near the soon-to-be-revitalized Collin Creek Mall. Eight years ago, Eliseo Figueroa was looking for a spot for what would become Lima Taverna. He was shopping at Macy’s in the old mall when he happened to cross paths with the landlord. Was it fate? Good luck? Whatever it was, Figueroa found a home for his restaurant.
“The landlord gave me the key and told me, ‘If you like it, this is my business card. I will see you the next day.’ So I went the next day to talk to him, and he gave me a good deal. And I said, ‘Why not?’”
Born and raised in Lima, Peru, Figueroa never imagined he’d own a restaurant. “I didn’t have a passion to cook, but to eat,” he tells Local Profile. And what he wanted to eat were the flavors of Peru that he missed.
Figueroa first came to the United States in March of 2000 and was living in Washington, D.C., when he began his journey in the service industry. He started as a busser, food runner and bar back, which evolved into stints as a server, bartender and manager in various Washington restaurants. Like him, many of his peers during this time went on to open restaurants themselves, including Michelin-starred chefs José Andrés and Fabio Trabocchi, among others.
For Figueroa, the restaurant industry was new: previously, he had worked as a physical education instructor. “My interest in this industry grew, and I learned more about restaurant management [as I] started from the bottom.”
“I love Texas because this is a multicultural state. Also, the people are nicer.”
Around 2016, Figueroa was persuaded to move to Texas after visiting a friend while on vacation. While North Texas offers plenty of Mexican cuisine, he found that there was a noticeable absence of Peruvian food — a stark contrast between here and Washington.
As he and his wife, Ana Figueroa, were settling into Texas, they spent many nights cooking family recipes in their home kitchen. It was around this time that Figueroa found himself determined to introduce the food of his homeland to the city.
“I love Texas because this is a multicultural state,” he says. “Also, the people are nicer.”
The Figueroas opened Lima Taverna in March 2017. To date, it remains completely family-owned and operated. “My wife is more focused in the kitchen,” Figueroa says. “I do both, but I focus more in the front of the house.”
Guests of Lima Taverna know that they’re in for an experience. Low lighting and warm color schemes make for an intimate dining session, which is ideal, as these are dishes guests will want to take in and savor slowly.
Lima Taverna’s food menu takes inspiration from not only the native Peruvians but also the country’s African, Asian and European immigrants.
“We’ve been eating ceviche for over 2,000 years,” says Figueroa. “The Moche started it, and then the Incas took over. And then, when the Spanish people came over, they transformed our ceviche.”
Ceviche is considered the national dish of Peru, and Lima Taverna’s signature ceviche mixto is composed of fish, shrimp and calamari and served alongside Peruvian corn and sweet potatoes. Spanish ceviches utilize onion and citrus fruits, and Lima Taverna’s ceviche incorporates these ingredients as well, but the corn and sweet potatoes help balance out the tangy flavor palate of the hearty, marinated and seasoned fish.
“We’ve been eating ceviche for over 2,000 years,” says Figueroa.
Other popular dishes include the Chinese-inspired lomo saltado — a stir-fry dish composed of filet mignon, white rice, onions, tomatoes, cilantro and soy sauce, served with hand-cut fries — as well as the seco de carne, a beef stew dish served with potatoes, canary beans, white rice and salsa criolla.
The dessert menu includes an indulgent tres leches cake and traditional Peruvian cookies called alfajores — spongy, heart-shaped sandwich cookies with a dusty flour touch and a dulce de leche center. And perhaps, the restaurant’s most popular dessert, picarones — a Peruvian plate of doughnut pastries made from sweet potatoes and squash, served with fig leaves, chancaca and a delightful syrup made from molasses.
From behind the bar, Lima Taverna offers a Peruvian-style silky, fruity sangria with a bit of a cinnamon-y Latin kick, unlike that found anywhere else. But the real winners are the nonalcoholic beverages and juices. One of our favorites is the lush, fruit-forward chicha morada — a traditional Peruvian beverage made of Andean purple corn, green apple, lime, pineapple, cinnamon and sugar. With a taste similar to that of sangria, this one is a good choice for those who are opting not to drink but still want to enjoy sweet, refreshing fruit flavors.
“When you get started with a business, it goes up and down, up and down,” Figueroa says. “I get a lot of support from my family. My wife and my kids give me positive energy and ideas, too. My guests also support me a lot by giving me positive comments and telling me to keep going and never give up. We remember those moments because that’s what makes us stronger.”
It’s not only stronger that Figueroa strives for — it’s also better. While the customer base is loyal and continues to grow, Figueroa is always looking to improve upon quality.
“We are very proud of our food because, besides the ingredients, we put in something extra,” says Figueroa. “This means love, but it’s more than love. We want to do the best every day, even when we do the same dishes, but our goal every day is to make it better. To find better potatoes, better ingredients — like organic cilantro and organic tomatoes — and just elevate the food.”
At Lima Taverna, they serve more than the flavors of Figueroa’s homeland. They want guests to feel right at home, even if that means staying long after closing hours.
“We never kick anyone out,” says Figueroa. “We never put the lights up or turn off the music. I hate that. And my staff, they know that they have to stay here. Our service is finished when our guests cross the door.”
This story originally appeared in the March/April 2025 issue of Local Profile. To subscribe, click here.
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