Downtown McKinney is a vision straight out of a Hallmark movie. Every brick building on the grid houses a locally owned shop or restaurant and its story, as well as preserving the memories of the businesses that came before them, back to the 1800s. The visuals bring me a feeling of familiarity because I am originally from Philadelphia and have missed this resourceful architecture.
My destination today is the McKinney Hat Company. The shop is long and narrow — probably the same dimensions as the modest row home I grew up in. A few staff members pop out from behind stacks of hat boxes to greet me over the sounds of country music.
Although I’ve lived in Texas for over three years now, I still haven’t found the formula for looking like a natural hat-wearer. I trust the staff to style me, and I have chosen to wear a long green-and-white dress printed with animals you’d find on a prairie and, of course, cowboy boots. Co-owner Brad Jolly is immediately up for the task and directs me to a delicate baby blue hat with a mustard ribbon. When I try it on, our photographer, Mia Valdez, snaps a photo to show me, and I find it hard to believe that I didn’t walk in looking this way — it’s just that natural.
“A hat is really an extension of your personality — we try to match the hat to the person,” Jolly says.
Jolly moved here from Arkansas two weeks after he received a call from co-owner Mike Buchanan, a resident of McKinney for over 25 years. Buchanan had always wanted to carve out his own Western-wear space in the downtown area. When the building became available, he jumped at the opportunity. The arrangements started in January 2021, and the store opened in March of that year — an impressive turnaround.
“Our shop is an experience: it’s not just walking into a store, picking a hat and bringing it to the counter,” Jolly says. “We will find the hat that fits you. When you walk out of the door, we want you to be confident.”
He points out that a hat is the first thing people notice about your attire. Although it’s always been something I noted subconsciously, I’ve never considered all the layers of personality that any style of hat can showcase. It offers an immediate insight into someone’s preferences — representing a certain sports team, designer or a tie-in to one’s heritage.
“A hat is really an extension of your personality — we try to match the hat to the person.”
The cowboy hat, created in the 1860s, remains a unique icon for America. Since then, people from other countries have come to associate us with a number of symbols beyond those of Wild West culture, such as bright yellow school buses, hot dogs and pickup trucks. But despite the popularization of those aesthetics, the cowboy hat is still at the top of the list for any tourist.
Perhaps the major factor in its legacy is the quality. Jolly says that hats are judged on an “X-factor rating system,” which traditionally scales from 1X to 10X. In the past, more Xs meant more beaver fur, which is naturally water-resistant and viewed as a high-quality material. These days, the ratings are more subjective and aren't standardized across brands. The number of Xs can go beyond 10, while the scale might not even refer to fur — straw hats are rated on the X-factor scale, too. A good rule of thumb is, the more Xs there are, the higher the price.
“I tell people that you’re buying grandpa’s hat right now,” Jolly says. “Your grandkids are gonna have this hat, and you don’t even have to take good care of it. That’s how high the quality is.”
All of the hats McKinney Hat Company sells are made in Texas, which is all I need to hear for the company to gain my trust. I decide to head to the back to change into another outfit so I can see how these hats pair with different styles. When I walk out with a ruffled white blouse and flared blue jeans, Jolly scans the rows of hats. I have to crane my neck up toward the high ceilings to see just how far the hat boxes reach. I notice three brands: Stetson, Resistol and Charlie 1 Horse.
The rise of the oldest brand takes us on a trip back to the 1860s. John B. Stetson formed the John B. Stetson Company in 1865 in Philadelphia. It’s an ironic twist, considering the vicious NFL rivalry between our cities. Stetson became one of the largest hat manufacturers in the world when he designed and popularized the first widely recognized cowboy hat.
Stetson was on a hunting trip in Colorado when he crafted his first prototype out of fur felt in order to create a durable, waterproof hat that also provided 360-degree protection from the sun with its wide brim. The design was influenced by a number of other styles, including the Mexican sombrero and bowler hats. Stetson took note of the variety of hats worn by cowboys and settlers, which included raccoon skin caps (think Davy Crockett), straw hats and even those that resembled what a sea captain would wear. None of them were functional against the elements, nor did they have the correct structural integrity.
Cowboys traveling through rugged terrain where water was scarce found another use for its strong design: holding drinking water. The stiff form of the hats allowed water from rivers and streams to be scooped up with ease. Referred to as the “boss of the plains,” the hat was designed in 1865 by Stetson himself and made the brand synonymous with cowboys.
Resistol derives its name from the resistant nature of its materials and was founded in 1927 by E.R. Byer and Harry Rolnick in Garland, Texas. These hats were favored by rodeo riders and country singers. The youngest of the brands, Charlie 1 Horse, came along in 1980 after owner Gordon Moore was on a trip in New Mexico. Moore and his colleagues met a Native American man who taught them how to make decorations for cowboy hats. His name was (you guessed it) Charlie 1 Horse, and he told them that he’d greatly appreciate it if they could form a company to honor him and his creations.
Jolly holds up two hat options: one is a dark brown with neutral-colored feathers, while the other is a lighter brown with red embellishments. Valdez and I both say “the one on the left” at the same time. The lighter brown wins. As I look in the mirror, I am surprised by how comfortable the hats are, despite their stiffness. Jolly asks if we’d like to see the process of branding a hat, as many customers choose to add their initials.
Before we can get to the branding, he demonstrates the process of lighting a hat on fire. This is called singeing or flashing, and it smooths out the felt. It can also make the hat look more worn in certain ways, offering a vintage feel. This truly does put the quality of the hat to the test, because when the flames are extinguished, I feel like I’ve witnessed an optical illusion. The hat still looks perfect, and I can’t think of any other items I own that would remain the same.
“There are so many different styles, and everything weaves in and out of cowboy hats and blurs the lines on purpose,” Jolly says. “Is it a cowboy hat? It’s whatever you want it to be.”
The McKinney Hat Company team has helped people customize their hats in a variety of ways. They’ve hosted corporate events, including one for a group of 150 people whose headquarters had just been moved to Dallas-Fort Worth, as well as small family events. Jolly says they like to ask customers what their ideal hat would be used for: is this an everyday piece, a formal occasion staple or even something for grilling by the pool? No matter what they reply with, they’ll be bringing home a hat that lasts a lifetime.
Guests can have the brim of a hat altered, add their favorite colors in ribbons, and choose jewelry or feathers. And they’re not limited to felt: there are also straw hats, which pair well with warmer weather. Jolly says that tourists love wearing their hats to the airport, and he will even stack two or three on his head when he’s leaving on a trip.
“There are so many different styles, and everything weaves in and out of cowboy hats and blurs the lines on purpose.”
But the best part is that the experience here fits so seamlessly into the bigger picture of McKinney’s legacy. Jolly encourages visitors to check out the other shops and try the local barbecue. He says you can get a great taste of Texan culture just by spending a full day in downtown McKinney. In a time when most downtowns are filled with competing corporations, it’s heartwarming to hear that the town’s businesses support one another.
As I head out, a staff member stops me and holds up a wallet, thinking it’s mine and I’ve left it behind. It isn’t mine, but I’m happy to get a small peek into the honest personalities here. I’ve actually managed to drop my wallet multiple times while living in Collin County, and it’s been rescued each time. Although Philadelphia is always in my heart, lost goods vanish forever in Philly.
As I walk down the lovingly preserved blocks of downtown McKinney after leaving the shop, I decide that I should start incorporating hats into my regular style. Maybe starting today? Perhaps I, too, will be able to select the right hats with the speed and expertise I’ve witnessed here.
5 Tips for Picking a Cowboy Hat
1. Pick a shape.
Cowboy hats come in a range of styles, from the traditional cattleman and the 10-gallon hat to the gambler and the boss of the plains, each with its own history and unique shape. But which one suits you best?
2. Choose the material.
There are two main cowboy hat categories: felt and straw. The decision might be seasonal (straw hats are easier for warm weather), but not necessarily. Felt offers that truly classic style, cold weather or not.
3. Make sure it fits.
“It’s gonna start with the fit,” Jolly says. “If it’s too tight or too loose, it sits in the closet. You can never wear it.” Keep in mind that the hat’s leather band does expand with wear.
4. Figure out the hat’s purpose.
Is it meant to be worn on a night out? Are we going for an everyday look that pairs well with casual attire? Perhaps you’re looking for a game day accessory? It’s best to consider a specific intention rather than envisioning which outfits would work around a style of hat.
5. Make it your own.
Customize with charms and the ribbon of your choice, but also, reshape the brim by having it flattened or curved. If the crown is pre-creased, it might be possible to re-crease, depending on the hat. But if you truly want a custom job, select a hat with an open crown that is not pre-creased.
“You’ve gotta come to the store to get the experience of trying different things on,” Jolly says. “You might see a picture of somebody wearing a hat, but when you put it on your head, it just doesn’t fit.”
Tip Our Hat originally appeared in the Jan./Feb. 2025 issue of Local Profile. To subscribe, click here.
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