"It was actually $22 million," I'm told, as I stand in the vestibule. But before arriving at the newly-opened Nuri Steakhouse in Dallas, I'd heard other numbers: $16 million, $20 million, millions and millions. Whatever the number, a lot was spent on getting this restaurant ready for prime time.
"Nuri," the menu tells me, means "worldly" in Korean. Owner Wan Kim draws upon his own heritage, incorporating Korean comfort food flourishes into a fine-dining steakhouse experience. "We believe that food is a celebration of life, bringing people together with every bite," says Kim in an official statement. "Our mission is to provide genuine care for our guests while offering them a culinary experience that transcends cultural boundaries."
At Nuri, that means an array of influences, eclectic and delicious: Korean, Japanese, Texas and even New Orleans — the last of which is also where Kim spent time. As I peruse the menu, I try to think of a restaurant where I can get hamachi, gumbo, Texas akaushi tomahawk steaks and Korean-influenced mac and cheese with Spam and kimchi. I cannot. This is what makes Nuri so fascinating.
Blade Runner, I think. The movie's visual cue typically evokes neon, night and cyberpunk streets, but the movie's design language was Art Deco influenced. Likewise, Nuri Steakhouse draws obvious inspiration from cyberpunk retro-futurism. The place feels like a movie set, and I expect Rick Deckard to come in out of the rain for a drink.
The restaurant is stunning, with a delicate, yet sturdy beauty. Everything seems so well put together. It's not just fancy schmancy. (A mac and cheese Spam dish on the menu is proof positive of any pretense.) I don't mind when things are over-the-top fancy. Gold leaf on food? Sure, okay. It doesn't make something taste better, but it does make the meal more glittery. No gold leaf on the food here, because here, that's not the point. For a $20-million-plus restaurant, there is admirable and understated restraint. What's flaunted is craft, art and beauty. I admire that. A lot.
Poke around the restaurant, and you really see the details, like massive chandeliers, handwoven carpet and handpainted paneling. In the member's lounge in the back, the walls are covered in burl wood. But even when you look deeper, where you'd like a restaurant would skimp to save, Nuri does not. The men's bathroom, for example, has rosso levanto marble on the floor, while the women's has nacarando quartzite — Gessi Inciso faucets are in both.
This desire not to cut corners is carried through to the menu from Michelin-recognized chef Minji Kim and Executive Chef Mario Hernandez, who was previously at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse. The steaks are big and delicious, but again, so are the cuts of hamachi. Portions feel generous, but then again, so does everything at Nuri, from the service to the decor.
It's 6:30, and there's not an open table in the restaurant. Nuri is packed. At the table catty-corner sits Wan Kim and a group of gentlemen, talking and toasting. Kim is the CEO of Smoothie King and has another restaurant, JOA, which was previously dubbed Nuri Grill. JOA is a fascinating restaurant, because it's high-quality meat and Korean dishes in what would seem like an unassuming setting. But don't be surprised if you see members of the Moon family enjoying a meal. Earlier this year, I wasn't.
Nuri takes the lessons from JOA — delicious, no-nonsense food — and serves them in one of the most beautiful restaurants in North Texas. During a private tour of Nuri after our meal, I'm told about plans for expansion into other cities out of Texas — the usual suspects — and I can't help but admire the ambition. This restaurant is big and bold, but hasn't forgotten the most important thing of all: the food and the service have to be really, really good. And here, they are.
Thank you Nuri Steakhouse for hosting and treating us. The restaurant is located at 2401 Cedar Springs Road, Suite 120, Dallas.
____
Hungry for more? Check out our dining guide.
Don't miss anything Local. Sign up for our free newsletter.