The place is packed. It's a Friday night, and we're at the newly-opened Joey Dallas in Northpark. We're greeted with complimentary champagne as we wait for our table — a good start to a great evening.
My wife points out one of the biggest kitchen lines we've ever seen, with chef after chef, elbow to elbow. The exposed kitchen shows off an efficient choreography of cooking.
"We're stacked on Friday — the line is beautiful, and it's a peek at behind the scenes," says Jesse Cera, Joey Restaurant's North Texas regional manager. Cera is friendly, warm and wonderfully Canadian — but so is Joey. Everyone we interact with is upbeat, polite and genuinely happy. I love it.
Founded in 1992 in Calgary, the family-owned-and-operated Joey Restaurants has locations across Canada and now, the United States, including California, Texas and Washington state.
"The other Texas Joey is in Houston," says John, the gentleman sitting at the adjacent table. He's a Dallas native, but frequents the Houston location with his girlfriend — it's called Joey Uptown, he says — and they like it so much, here they are tonight while in town.
"Dallas is becoming a great food city — the caliber of New York and LA," says Cera. "Since we've opened, I've found Dallas guests to be very discerning — they know what they like."
Dallas has long been a great food city, and locals have long known what they like and don't. It's gratifying to see from outside the city and the state recognize and appreciate that.
As I snack on roasted corn guacamole, I eye the modern, chic decor and the basketball game playing on the flatscreens above the bar. It's easy to see why people like Joey: the food, the drinks and the service are all on point. But, Joey is more than that. It's upscale, yet casual. You want a $94 bone-in, 22-oz. ribeye? Joey's got you. You want $35-dollar sliced sirloin and ravioli (no doubt, the best deal on the menu)? Ditto. From pricey to more reasonable, Joey casts a wide net.
"If you're here for burger and fries, we are happy to have you," says Cera. "If you want a high-end steak and a cabernet, we're also grateful to have you."
But Joey isn't just burgers and steaks. The sake-glazed Chilean sea bass was an umami symphony, cooked to perfection and served with a savory dashi broth. Both the spaghetti and the ravioli were also winners.
While waiting for our dessert, the créme brûlée cheesecake with fresh strawberry compote, Cera says, "Our espresso martini is one of the three best in the city," One of the three best, I ask, taking a sip. It's not too sweet, unlike many espresso martinis, and strikes a perfect balance with the coffee.
We get to talking about restaurants in North Texas, and Cera, a newly-minted Allen resident, mentions that Joey is looking at possibilities for other locations, including in Collin County — which would make perfect sense. A Joey at, for example, The Star? Or in the upcoming Fields development? Yes, please.
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