The revolving door evokes a different era. It should. Dating from the 1930s, the door was picked up in Chicago at an auction. "When you want to feel like this restaurant has been here for thirty years," says Adrian Soto, one of the managers at Quartino's Ristorante in Grandscape. Mission accomplished: the restaurant is new, but certainly doesn't feel that way.
It's like stepping into a classic Italian neighborhood in Chi-town's west side. Little details abound, from subway titles on the walls to train station-style split-flap display. Old windows are stained with aluminum, staff wear Serie-A jerseys, and a Sophia Loren movie plays throughout the restaurant. "We show lots of Sophia Loren movies," says Soto.
Hailing from Chicago, Quartino's arrived in North Texas earlier this year, bringing with it a serious adherence to Italian food, whether that's how the meals are prepared, served and enjoyed.
"We don't want our food sitting under heat lamps, so when it's done, we bring it right out," says Soto. Dishes are served family style, making the meal feel communal and cozy. This is the type of place you want to take your family and friends.
The pasta is both made in-house and imported: both the gnocchi (Quartino's own) and the tortellini (imported) are excellent. The pizza menu is robust and delicious. Dish after dish didn't disappoint.
A huge bar serves up great cocktails. The espresso martini is particularly good, I'm not. I've had soooo many espresso martinis in my life: some have been good, real good, and some have been a-okay, fine. It does seem like a default drink, and in some ways, it is. But I'm pleasantly surprised that Quartino's isn't serving up just another espresso martinis. Rather, they're mixing one of the best ones I've had. The negroni is solid, too. Bravo.
For all the details, I notice that the chairs don't match — ditto for some of the tableware. That's on purpose. Quartino's wants guests to feel at home, just like when you'd visit friends, and they'd pull up extra seats. It's homey. Relaxing. And delicious. Quartino's hasn't yet been here for thirty years, but we certainly hope it will be around for decades to come.